KATHMANDU: A daring autumn expedition on Mount Makalu (8,463m) by two Russian alpinists has come to an end after unstable snow conditions forced them to retreat just a few hundred meters below the summit.

Veteran climbers Artem Tsentsevitsky and Denis Alekshenko, the only team on Makalu this season, returned to Kathmandu on Monday after spending over 50 days on the mountain under the banner of I AM Trekking and Expedition.

The duo had set up base camp on September 15, embarking on a pure alpine-style ascent, without Sherpa assistance, pre-fixed ropes, or supplementary oxygen. Their minimalist approach, a hallmark of traditional high-altitude climbing, tested both endurance and decision-making in one of Nepal’s most challenging environments.

Their summit push began on October 10, marking the fifth and final rotation of their expedition. The climbers reached 7,687 meters, just below the traditional Camp IV site. However, heavy snow accumulation and unstable conditions, remnants of an early October storm, made further progress perilous.

“They were just a few hundred meters short of the top, but the snowpack was dangerously unstable,” said a spokesperson for I AM Trekking and Expedition. “They made the right call. Knowing when to turn back is what defines true mountaineering experience.”

Despite the setback, the climbers are said to be in good health and spirits, celebrating their safe return to Kathmandu as a success in itself.

Their attempt, one of the few independent alpine-style expeditions in Nepal this season, has drawn admiration within the mountaineering community for its self-reliant ethos and technical precision.

Makalu, the world’s fifth-highest mountain, remains one of the least frequently climbed 8,000ers, known for its steep ridges and unpredictable weather, especially during the autumn climbing window.