Climbing

Pakistani team opens historic new route on Broad Peak, naming it after mountaineering pioneer Mirza Ali

Pakistani
Photo Courtesy: Migma G.
By Tourism Times
Published at : 21 Jul 2026, 6:58 PM

KATHMANDU: For the first time in Pakistan's mountaineering history, a Pakistani-led team has established a brand-new route variation on an 8,000-meter peak. The achievement took place above Camp 3 on Broad Peak (8,047m), led by Mirza Ali, founder of Karakorum Expeditions Pvt. Ltd.

The team spent three consecutive days working above Camp 3 in punishing conditions, pushing through waist-deep snow to reach roughly 7,200 meters before launching a final summit push. Climbers departed at 2:00 AM on July 19 and, after more than 20 hours battling continuous snowfall, reached the summit at 9:55 PM — a round trip of over 24 hours.

Along the way, the team fixed more than 1,600 meters of rope and installed permanent rock pitons, creating a durable, secure climbing line through mixed snow and rock terrain.

Named the "Mirza Ali Legacy Route" in honor of the expedition leader's 16 years of service to Pakistani mountaineering, the new path offers a major upgrade over the traditional line through Broad Peak's notorious V Section.

Climbers can now reach the summit from Camp 3 in just 7–8 hours, with a descent of only 2–3 hours — significantly cutting time spent in the high-altitude "death zone" and boosting both safety and summit success rates.

Mirza Ali believes the route could do for Broad Peak what a similarly accessible route did for Manaslu in Nepal — transforming it into one of the world's most sought-after 8,000-meter peaks.

"A safer and shorter route will attract more international climbers to Pakistan," Ali said, pointing to the potential for greater foreign exchange earnings, new jobs for local communities, and long-term growth of Gilgit-Baltistan's mountain economy. He estimates Pakistan's climbing tourism sector could generate over $10 million annually within five years with the right investment in training and infrastructure.

Expedition members Juan Toro (Argentina) and David Klein (Hungary), both of whom summited without supplemental oxygen, praised the Pakistani team's grit and technical skill, calling the achievement a milestone moment for the country's mountaineering community.

Climbing Leader Ahmed Baig, summiting Broad Peak for the third time, called the new line "a true adventure" and said he hopes it inspires the next generation of Pakistani climbers to "dream bigger and push the limits of what is possible."

All major anchor points along the route have been recorded via Garmin inReach GPS, giving future expeditions permanent, precise waypoints for navigation, maintenance, and emergency planning.


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