KATHMANDU: In a remarkable achievement for Himalayan alpine climbing, two climbers Patrick Perry Johnson and Erik Gomez have opened a new route on Phari Lapcha (6,017m), completing the first recorded ascent of the mountain’s southeast face.

The accomplishment comes after nearly six weeks stationed in the Khumbu, where heavy snowfall had repeatedly shut down other climbing options.

The peak, visible along the classic trekking trail from Phortse to Machhermo, became the team’s new target after weather prevented progress elsewhere. Travelling light from Phortse and resting at Machhermo’s iconic Yeti Lodge, the duo prepared for a one-day alpine-style push. They began their ascent at 1:30 a.m., reaching the foot of the face shortly after sunrise.

Johnson described the climb as both beautiful and demanding. “Loose snow over frozen rock made the mixed sections very engaging, and the final meters required real focus as the snow became increasingly unstable,” he recounted. 

"The last 200-300 meters, the climbing became quite mentally engaging. After digging thru the cornice on the summit ridge, Erik and I walked west across to the summit." The pair climbed without ropes or fixed protection, completing the technical 750-metre face with total self-reliance.

Their new line, Stone(d) Yeti (AI2+, M3, steep snow), follows the southeast face before joining the upper slopes shared with the established route The Oracle Night for the last 100 meters. 

After topping out, the climbers descended westward toward the Machhermo Glacier, navigating ten rappels, most of them in full darkness, before returning to the lodge at 1 a.m, according to Managing Director Sonam Sherpa of the expedition organizer, iTrek Everest, whose  praised the climbers’ commitment. “This climb brings attention to the incredible alpine potential the Khumbu still holds,” he said.