Climbing

Mingma Tenzi Sherpa makes history: Scales all 14 peaks above 8,000m in animal-free gear

Mingma
By Tourism Times
Published at : 12 Oct 2025, 9:44 PM

The veteran Himalayan guide and K2 winter ascent hero summits Cho Oyu to finish his 8,000-meter quest, marking a world-first in ethical climbing.

KATHMANDU: Renowned climber Mingma Tenzi Sherpa has become the latest Nepali mountaineer to summit all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks, completing the feat on October 1 with the ascent of Cho Oyu (8,188m) from the Tibetan side.

What makes this achievement unique is that the 40-year-old climber from Yafu, Sankhuwasabha, completed all 14 summits while wearing gear made entirely without animal products. Sponsored by Save The Duck, Tenzi became the first person known to have climbed all 14 highest mountains under a 100% animal-free ethos.

“This accomplishment is not just about the climbs—it’s about respecting all forms of life,” Tenzi said, dedicating his achievement to environmental awareness and compassionate exploration.

A veteran of the Himalaya, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa is widely regarded as one of the finest high-altitude guides of his generation. He has summited 8,000-meter peaks more than 20 times, including 11 ascents of Mt. Everest, and is known for his key role in the historic first winter ascent of K2 in 2021, alongside Nirmal “Nimsdai” Purja and Mingma David Sherpa.

Trained under the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) and Nepal Mountaineering Instructors Association, Tenzi specializes in high-mountain rescue, navigation, and rope fixing. His technical skill has made him a lead rope-fixing expert on challenging peaks such as Gasherbrum, Broad Peak, Dhaulagiri, and Makalu.

Born and raised in the remote mountain village of Yafu near Makalu, Tenzi began his climbing journey at age 19, guiding on trekking peaks like Mera, Island, and Lobuche. His early exposure to the harsh Himalayan environment shaped his endurance and precision as a climber.

To date, his 8,000-meter record includes:

  • Everest (8,848m) – 11 times
  • K2 (8,611m) – 3 times, including the first winter ascent (2021)
  • Lhotse, Makalu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Annapurna I, Kangchenjunga, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I & II, Nanga Parbat, Shishapangma, and Cho Oyu

Beyond his climbing feats, Tenzi advocates for sustainable and ethical mountaineering. “True adventure,” he says, “should not come at the cost of nature or life.”


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