KATHMANDU: A Czech-dominated international team has set its sights on two peaks in the Makalu massif this spring, with I.A.M. Treks and Expedition organising simultaneous permitted expeditions to Makalu I (8,463m) and the lesser-attempted Makalu II — also known as Kangchung Tse — at 7,678 metres.

Both expeditions departed Kathmandu on April 14 and are approaching their objectives via the Tumlingtar–Chichila–Num–Yak Kharkha–Base Camp caravan route, one of the more demanding approach treks in eastern Nepal.

The Makalu I team is led by Martin Ksandr of the Czech Republic and comprises five members — Marketa Marvanova and Pavel Paloncy from the Czech Republic, Dmitrii Kliukin from Russia, and Pavel Burda from the Czech Republic. The permit, valid for 75 days, covers the standard 8,000-metre-plus ascent route excluding Everest.

The Makalu II expedition, permitted separately for Spring 2026 with a 60-day validity, is led by Lukas Madr — at 23 years old, notable as one of the younger expedition leaders on the permit list this season. His six-member team includes Jana Vankova from Slovakia, and David Roubinek, Josef Vojtech, Marek Blahuta, Petr Kadanka, and Martin Ksandr from the Czech Republic — the latter also appearing on the Makalu I permit, suggesting an overlap between the two teams.

Pemba Jangbu Sherpa, Managing Director at I.A.M. Treks and Expedition, said the dual expedition reflects the growing interest in Makalu as a serious high-altitude objective. "Makalu II — Kangchung Tse — is a fascinating peak. 

It sits in the shadow of Makalu I, but it has its own character and demands real mountaineering competence across the 7,501–7,999 metre ascent range," he said. "We are proud to be organising both expeditions simultaneously for a team that clearly has serious ambitions in this massif."

Makalu I, the world's fifth highest peak, receives considerably fewer climbers than Everest or the popular 8,000-metre objectives further west, making it one of Nepal's more coveted and less congested high-altitude challenges. 

Makalu II — Kangchung Tse — though technically a subsidiary summit of the massif, is a standalone objective in its own right and sees even rarer traffic, adding to its appeal for teams seeking something beyond the established high-altitude circuits.

Both teams operate through I.A.M. Trekking and Expedition, with base camp as their shared staging point in the remote Sankhuwasabha district of eastern Nepal.