KATHMANDU: Former British Gurkha and double above-knee amputee Hari Budha Magar has achieved yet another historic milestone in his quest to conquer the world’s highest peaks. On October 18, 2025, at 7:00 a.m., Magar successfully summited Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya, 4,884m), the highest mountain in Oceania, becoming the first double above-knee amputee in the world to do so.

The climb marked the sixth summit in his ambitious Seven Summits Challenge, which aims to scale the highest mountain on each continent. Magar’s next and final objective is Mt. Vinson in Antarctica, planned for December 2025, which would make him the first double above-knee amputee in history to complete all Seven Summits, a feat achieved by fewer than 500 people worldwide.

Magar was accompanied on the Carstensz Pyramid expedition by IFMGA mountain guides Mingma Chhiring Sherpa and Abiral Rai. The climb was supported by Seven Summit Treks, 14 Peaks Expedition, and Tropic Adventure Papua.

“This climb was one of the most technical of the Seven Summits, but with my team’s help, we made it,” Magar shared on social media after the ascent. “It’s all part of raising awareness about disability and inspiring others to climb their own mountains and conquer their dreams.”

Expressing gratitude, he added, “This wouldn’t have been possible without my family, friends, charities, communities, and amazing sponsors. Together, we make anything possible.”

A journey of resilience and purpose

When Hari Budha Magar lost both legs above the knees to an improvised explosive device (IED) in Afghanistan in 2010, few could have imagined that he would one day stand atop the world’s tallest mountains. Fifteen years later, the 45-year-old Nepali-born veteran continues to redefine courage, endurance, and possibility.

Earlier this year, Magar became the first double above-knee amputee to climb Mt. Aconcagua (6,961m), the highest mountain outside Asia, marking another milestone in his campaign. Climbing alongside IFMGA guides Abiral Rai and Mingma Chhiring Sherpa, he reached the summit on February 22, 2025, after battling extreme cold and exhaustion.

“Every mountain brings its own challenges, but for me these are amplified with my disability,” he said to Blesma. “Although not the most technically difficult mountain I’ve climbed, it was physically and mentally exhausting as I move three times slower than an able-bodied climber.”

Located in Argentina’s Mendoza region, Aconcagua is notorious for unpredictable weather and thin air. “The summit day was the hardest,” Magar recalled. “I even had to change my prosthetic legs on snow and ice during the descent.”

From Mt. Everest to Mt. Olympus

In July 2025, Magar added another peak to his record, Mt. Olympus (2,918m), the mythical home of the Greek gods. He summited with Greek climber Marios Giannakou, dedicating the climb to Jason Kenisson, Giannakou’s late friend who died on Mt. Everest in 2023, the same day Magar reached its summit.

“For me, it was about paying respect to Jason, who died chasing his dream,” Magar shared. “I always climb with purpose — not for fame or money, but to inspire others to conquer their own mountains.”

He later learned he had become the first double above-knee amputee to summit Mt. Olympus, underscoring his growing legacy as a mountaineer redefining human endurance.

Turning tragedy into triumph

Born in Rolpa district, Magar served for 15 years with the Royal Gurkha Rifles in the British Army. His life changed forever after the 2010 explosion in Afghanistan. What could have ended his dreams instead became the foundation of a new mission: to challenge perceptions of disability and inspire resilience.

In 2018, he fought and won a legal battle to overturn Nepal’s ban on climbers with disabilities. Five years later, he made history as the first double above-knee amputee to summit Mt. Everest (8,849m) in May 2023, earning him a Guinness World Record and the Pride of Britain Award.

“Everest was only the beginning,” Magar said. “It’s not enough to inspire people once. You need to keep showing that nothing is impossible. That’s why I took on the Seven Summits challenge.”

Seven Summits progress

To date, Hari Budha Magar has successfully scaled:

• Mont Blanc (4,810m) – Europe – August 2019
• Mt. Kilimanjaro (5,895m) – Africa – January 2020
• Mt. Everest (8,849m) – Asia – May 2023
• Denali (6,190m) – North America – June 2024
• Aconcagua (6,961m) – South America – February 2025
• Carstensz Pyramid (4,884m) – Oceania – October 2025
• Next Target: Mt. Vinson (4,892m), Antarctica – December 2025 (planned)

Upon completing Mt. Vinson, Magar will become the first double above-knee amputee to complete the Seven Summits, achieving one of mountaineering’s most prestigious goals.

Beyond the summits

Through his climbs, Magar raises funds and awareness for veteran and disability charities, including the Gurkha Welfare Trust, Blesma, On Course Foundation, Pilgrim Bandits, and Team Forces.

Working with partners such as Ottobock, Parajumpers, AG1, and Barratt Redrow Developments, he also tests advanced prosthetic designs on high-altitude expeditions, contributing to innovations that enhance mobility for other amputees.

From the battlefields of Afghanistan to the world’s highest summits, Hari Budha Magar’s journey stands as a powerful testament to courage, determination, and purpose.

“The climb is not just about me,” he said. “It’s about showing the world that disability is not inability. With belief, teamwork, and determination, anyone can rise beyond their limits — no matter how high the mountain.”