KATHMANDU: A Chinese climber has completed a rare and extremely difficult feat on Mount Everest and Mount Lhotse, breaking a record set by Nepali-British climber Nirmal "Nims" Purja.

According to Chhang Dawa Sherpa, Expedition Director at Seven Summit Treks, Gexi Luori (43) from China stood atop the world’s highest peak at around 3:30 am on May 27, completing double ascents of both Everest and Lhotse in a single season.

With his ascent on Everest this morning, Gexi Luori – popularly known as Luo Luo – becomes the first climber to achieve the rare double-header in the fastest time by scaling Everest, then Lhotse, then Lhotse again, and finally Everest again. “This is without doubt one of the most remarkable achievements ever seen on an 8,000-meter peak.”

Previously, Nirmal "Nims" Purja scaled Everest and Lhotse twice between May 15 and May 28, 2022, becoming the first to do so. Purja traversed the Everest-Lhotse combination twice. However, Luo Luo has done it by scaling Everest first at 7:15 am on May 17, then standing atop Lhotse on May 18. He then scaled Lhotse again on May 25, and climbed Everest again at 3:30 am on May 27. According to climbers, climbing from Everest to Lhotse is comparatively easier than from Lhotse to Everest.

“Luo Luo has done Everest and Lhotse twice in just 9 days, 20 hours and 15 minutes,” Chhang Dawa said.

He added that it is an incredible achievement in the history of 8,000-meter peaks and high-altitude mountaineering.

“He was also scheduled to summit Mount Everest on May 26, but due to dangerous high wind conditions, he was forced to turn back from the South Summit. A strong and wise decision in one of the most difficult environments on Earth,” Sherpa informed.