KATHMANDU: A short bus ride out of Kathmandu and a trail that wound through forest, past smaller waterfalls and through a quiet hillside village took my three friends, Anus, Risiv, Prashant, and me to Pangsam Okhreni Waterfall on a recent hike — a day that delivered fresh air, good company and, by the time we turned back, an unplanned lesson in why a raincoat beats an umbrella on the trail.

Getting there

We began at RNAC Bus Stop in Sundhara, catching a bus to Sundarijal for Rs 70 per person, a common starting point for hikes in this part of the Valley. It was from Sundarijal that the real trek began, as we picked up the trail toward the waterfall.

At the entry point, the hiking ticket cost Rs 100 per person. With four of us in the group, the full entry cost came to Rs 400 — a small price, we felt, for the day that followed.

A short walk from the ticket counter brought us to an army checkpoint, where our bags were checked for prohibited items, including plastics, speakers and non-vegetarian food, none of which are allowed on the trail. The rule keeps the route clean, peaceful and safe for hikers and wildlife alike, and it is a responsibility hikers are expected to share, avoiding speakers and doing their part to protect the environment along the way.

Respecting the trail

For all its beauty, the hike also revealed a familiar problem. Despite garbage bins placed along the route, we noticed many visitors still leaving waste behind on the trail and in the forest. We made sure to carry back everything we had brought in, down to snack wrappers and empty bottles.

It was a reminder that enjoying nature and protecting it go hand in hand. A clean trail does not just look better; it helps preserve the forest for the hikers and wildlife who come after. Small habits, we realised, can add up to a real difference.

The trail unfolds

The hike itself was a comfortable mix of adventure and relaxation. With four of us walking together, there was plenty of time to talk, take photographs and simply take in the views, and reaching the waterfall felt well earned after the walk in.

The landscape changed steadily as we climbed, with greenery, flowing water and quiet surroundings making every stretch worthwhile. Two-wheelers, we noticed, can travel as far as Okhreni Waterfall, and we passed several visitors who had ridden up before continuing on foot toward Pangsam Waterfall. Beyond the village, though, the trail is footpath only: vehicles go no further, and hikers cover the rest on foot.

In total, the hike covered around 10 kilometres and took us nearly four-and-a-half hours, largely because we stopped often for water, photos and snacks, which made the day feel unhurried rather than rushed. Along the way, we passed through a picturesque village and several smaller waterfalls that made the trail feel rewarding at every turn.

A village welcome, and an unlikely companion

Some of the warmest moments of the day came from the people we met on the trail. The hillside village stood out in particular, for its calm atmosphere and welcoming locals.

One encounter, though, we did not expect: a dog from the village joined us partway through the hike and stayed with us the rest of the way, leading on ahead almost like a guide. He walked with us to the waterfall and back again, and we rewarded him with a biscuit before saying our goodbyes — a small moment, but one that stayed with us long after the hike had ended.

When the weather turned

The walk up was under clear, sunny skies, ideal hiking weather. The return was a different story: heavy rain set in, and the trail grew noticeably harder to manage underfoot. We had an umbrella with us, but it proved difficult to use while walking; a raincoat, we would suggest, is the better call for anyone taking on this trail.

Heading home

We made it back to the bus stop just in time to catch the last bus, at around 7 pm. The bus took us as far as Jorpati, and from there, we made our own way home, tired but happy with how the day had gone.

A trip worth remembering

From the start at RNAC Bus Stop to the checkpoint, the village, the waterfalls and the destination itself, every stretch of the hike to Pangsam Okhreni Waterfall added something to the day. It was, in the end, as much a reminder to hike responsibly and respect the trail as it was a break from the city.

The friendly faces, the peaceful village, an unexpected four-legged companion, and weather that changed its mind halfway through — together, they made for a hike worth remembering: a fitting mix of adventure, nature and friendship.