Climbing

IFMGA guide Jyamchang Bhote scales Vinson Massif for 15th time

IFMGA
By Tourism Times
Published at : 12 Jan 2026, 12:59 PM

KATHMANDU: Renowned Nepali climber and IFMGA guide Jyamchang Bhote has successfully reached the summit of Vinson Massif in Antarctica for a historic 15th time.

“I reached the summit of Mt. Vinson on January 6,” Bhote stated. He is now among a very small group of climbers with the most ascents of the continent's highest peak.

Bhote’s Antarctic expertise also extends to guiding trips to the Emperor Penguin Colony at Gould Bay and the South Pole. “Very few Nepali guides have guided expeditions to the Emperor Penguin Colony,” he noted. The Gould Bay camp offers a rare opportunity to observe emperor penguins up close from a remote but comfortable base.

A native of Sankhuwasabha district, Bhote has also summited Mount Everest nine times. During his ascent last year, he planted an environmentally themed flag to promote a global message of climate action, forest preservation, and greenery.

Alongside his expeditions, Bhote is a dedicated instructor. As a senior instructor with both the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) and the Nepal Mountaineering Instructor Association (NMIA), he leads courses ranging from basic rock climbing for schoolchildren to advanced training for professional guides.

His contributions extend to leadership roles in several mountaineering bodies. He has served as Vice President of the Himalaya Bhote Society, Treasurer of the Sankhuwasabha Everest Climbers Association Nepal (SECAN), and a board member of the NMIA. He is also a life member of the US Nepal Climbers Association, a former executive board member of the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA), a general member of the NMA, and an associate member of the Everest Summiteers Association.

Bhote remains a respected figure in both Nepali and international mountaineering circles, and his latest achievement further cements his legacy as both a premier climber and an environmental advocate.


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